Friday 30 October 2009

Adopting small children!

School Children

 

On the walk to work I pass loads of school kids walking to school. There seems to be a uniform uniform, only in different colours. The girls wear a long skirt of a particular colour, aquamarine and burgundy are the most common, but often with trousers underneath. The boys wear trousers of the same colour. They all wear a white shirt (no tie!) and a waistcoat of the same colour as the skirt. It is simple but nice and looks comfortable. What is great about seeing the school kids is that they are the same wherever you go. Boys wearing football tops under their shirts, girls with spangly cardigans over their waistcoats for which they are definitely going to get a talking to, boys carrying books but not using a bag, boys getting girls to carry their books for them, girls with fancy things in their hair etc. It is obvious that many of these uniforms have been sewn together by mothers with little money, many are dirty and ripped. It can often be difficult to keep anything clean here when the water supply goes out, and you can see from the state of the houses many will not have running water in the house but use a standpipe in their area. Nevertheless all the kids wear the uniform and are pleased to be going to school. We all walk at the side of the road as there are no pavements. Buses and cars beep to let us know they are coming up behind us, but the pedestrians are about 6-8 deep at the side of the road. The embassy road is about 6 lanes wide both sides. One of the things that cheers me up the most going to work is the number of smiles and hellos I get along the way. A foreigner or ferengi as we are known is still something of a novelty. In particular children of four years and under love to say hello and shake your hand. It is almost like you are a lucky talisman and if you shake a ferengi's hand you will have good luck. But their smiles are gorgeous. The Ethiopian people in general smile a lot and they are so beautiful when they smile. However, some children are quite afraid of ferengis and get scared if I hold out my hand to them, they hide behind their mother's skirt. But generally it cheers me up to say hello to these smiling children. As I take the same road to work I have been adopted by two girls on their way to school. Their names are Reesa and Fadeela. They just came up to me one morning and told me my hair was lovely (the following Thursday they said 'every day you are beautiful' – who can resist that?) and we got chatting in English. They are in grades 5 and 6 so about 11 or 12 years old. Now whenever I see them we walk to school together (its on my way to work). The other morning we had a heated discussion about whether Chris Brown or Rhianna was a better singer. Fadeela and I both agreed that Chris Brown was bad for having hit Rhianna but Reessa still thought Rhianna was better. This morning I was listening to my MP3 player when I met them and for the rest of the journey they listened to Abba's Mama Mia and we sang along together. So hopefully I can help them with English. They tell me words in Amharic, but I always forget them, so when I left them at school last week they said don't forget our names – but how could I? (Fran tell Hannah: This morning I met another girl called Hannah and she met her friend called Danny, who I suppose is called Daniel. I wonder if she has a goat at home!) I see so many wonderful things on the way to work. A new bridge is currently under construction too – built with Chinese money. But the hard labour is done by the locals, chipping at huge rocks with pick axes – in the hot sun – for about 10 birr a day – that's 5pence!!!! But the progress they make is amazing!! I enjoy walking as it is always sunny in the morning and it is the only exercise I get at the moment – 45 mins walk in the sun! Not bad. There is a major junction on my way and it often gets clogged by blue line taxis (mini buses we travel in) with guys shouting out the window their destinations. You can just flag one done if I can understand where they are going. It took me a week and a half and a long walk home one evening before I learned the word for stop please so I could get off. There are always goats who accompany me on the way to work too, and I pass lots of people with their wares of tomatoes, potatoes and green beans (I am already sick of green beans) laid out in the street! I buy my bananas for the week from a stall close to the ministry and my water from a young boy at a stall – who should be at school! But he recognises me now and has my water ready. Its not the same as cycling through Pollok Park but I love it.

 

Love to you all, Joanne x



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Monday 19 October 2009

Walking to Work

Walking to Work in Addis

 

Hello folks. Hope everyone is well. If you read my last blog then you'll know how busy work has been. But I am enjoying it so far. I also enjoy the walk to work. It is about 45 mins and quite different to the cycle I had through Pollok Park to Lourdes. I do miss the bike. I have seen a few cyclists here, but it is more dangerous than London, I reckon. Also a lot of my walk is uphill, which is good as I haven't yet worked out how to get some proper exercise here. Apparently the British Embassy has a tennis court, but a tree fell on it last year and it hasn't been cleared since – so not many tennis lovers there. I leave my compound (that's just really my house behind a big wall and 'don't-come-near-me' gate) at 7.45. I turn down my dusty dirt track, trying to avoid the many stray dogs which bark constantly during the night, onto a larger road which has tarmac on it and head up towards what we call the embassy road. I have no idea of its real name. Roads here don't have sign posts. I did see a sign post once, Queen Elizabeth II Road, but it had fallen over and was lying in the dirt. We call the main road Embassy Road as the British embassy is on it, and right next door is the brand new British Council building. It is a gorgeous building, all wood panelled and glass. Needless to say both buildings have huge security gates. The British embassy has 88 acres of land which includes an 8 hole golf course and a vast forest out of which leopards apparently roam. What strikes me most about these two buildings is they are directly across the road from where the real people of Addis live, in mud huts and corrugated iron roofs. It looks like what you would call a shanty town. I don't think I could live and work in the embassy and see that across the road every morning. But it does cross my mind how soon I may become 'accustomed' to seeing the poverty around me every day. The poverty and simplicity and basic way of living here is a fact of life and a fact of the city. Unlike Lima where you could avoid the poorer slum areas in Addis it is all around you. All people of Addis, rich and poor, live check by jowl, almost literally. It is quite humbling really. I can safely hide away behind my big walls and gate and not see, hear or smell the 'real' Addis. For the moment I try to take in all the scenes around me each morning and be aware of the people and lives I walk past every day.



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Monday 12 October 2009

Working in Addis

Working in Addis

 

Hello everyone, I hope you are all well and enjoying the October break. I hope the weather is kind to you. We have been having rain for the past four days. Real proper thundery rain. The streets are rivers of mud. But it is good for Ethiopia and it is good for continued electricity supply. So actually I am happy to see the rain. I have been working at the Ministry of Education now for three weeks. I am officially a 'suit'. Aaarrgghh! But although it is called the Ministry it is more like what I imagine working at Wheatley House is like – lots of people looking busy, wandering around endlessly with bits of 'important-looking' bits of paper, telling everyone they are 'soooo busy' and completely disorganised and not getting much done. But that is harsh on my Ethiopian colleagues. They do work hard, but are completely disorganised. No filing system or recording system. Meetings are plentiful but no minutes are ever recorded. Also meetings are very often cancelled as people simply do not turn up. Phones go off and are answered during meetings and it is quite humorous to see grown men crouching under a desk and whispering into their phone, all simply because 'that call' could not go unanswered. My colleague Solomon is particularly guilty of this. Every day he says to me, 'Can I answer this? It is very important. I get a lot of important calls.' I reply 'does it make a difference what I say?' and he just laughs.

 

I have quite a good team. They don't call themselves a department, not sure why. The whole department I am working in is called a Core Process, headed by the core process owner, then we have the sub-process headed by the sub-process owner, but no mention of a department. My three colleagues (also known as counter-parts for VSO) are Solomon, Tsegaw and Hamid. Together we are in charge of ELQIP – English Language Quality Improvement Programme. (I officially got my name on my door on Friday!) Within that I am involved in ELTIP – English Language Teachers Improvement Programme. This involves several things. First I co-ordinate the ELICs nationwide - English Language Improvement Centres. There are around 30 ELICs in the country which provide courses or clubs or anything else relevant to support the students and staff in colleges and universities to improve their English. All subjects are taught in English from secondary school onwards. But there are major gaps in teachers English. It is my job to ensure that ELICs are running smoothly and they get what resources they need – which looks like it is going to be a difficult task. At the moment I am conducting a census of what centres we have as Tsegaw does not have an up-to-date list of centres and their co-ordinators. Also it is hoped that in the next month I will have to monitor and evaluate quite a number of centres which means a field trip – yippee. I get to leave Addis and travel the length of the country. I am so looking forward to that. But that trip has been suspended (lots of suspension here, though not in the buses!) till I complete a task given to me directly from the State Minister. His office is lovely. Huge Jimmy Saville type chairs, only in leather and mahogany, with a large flat screen t.v. I have been given the job of writing up a 'profile' of all the qualities a primary and secondary teacher would have. Solomon and I are preparing to train 40,000 teachers to improve their English Language, both in proficiency and methodology. It is quite an ambitious task and the aim is to have assessed all English teachers' skills gaps and then devise modules which will address these skills gaps and then train teacher trainers to ensure all teachers have access to these modules and hey presto – all English teachers in Ethiopia will have improved English skills. It is hoped this will all be done in the next three years. If I get it right and do some of the training myself, maybe we can have Ethiopian teachers all speaking with a broad Glasgow accent! So I am pretty busy at the moment, especially as I get the odd editing task to do as well. Just finished editing the government's policy on HIV and AIDS. Very interesting. So I am pretty busy, but so far the work is interesting, though at times frustrating. It is a long day, 8.30am – 5.30pm with a one hour lunch. But two hours on a Friday. Thankfully I have my own room with internet access which is great and I have a lovely view of the hills surrounding Addis from my window. So it is pretty nice. I can wander off and visit other VSOs in the building who work close by. My friends David and Maureen, who are in charge of CPD nationwide, work on the same floor, which is nice and we go for lunch together.

 

I have loads more to share, and my next instalment will be The Walk to Work. Many interesting sites include, Chinese Road building, adopting cute small children and goats tied to roof racks. Take care everyone. You are all in my heart and thoughts and prayers. Have a great October week.

 

Love Joanne in Ethiopia.



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